From the name and its color to the superstitions of the sailors who carried them, aquamarines have always been linked to the sea. Uncover the truth about these blue cousins to emeralds.

THE ABCS OF AQUAMARINE

Like emeralds, aquamarines are members of the beryl family, a crystal mineral form of aluminum and berylium. Aquamarines, however, do not contain chromium, which gives emeralds their green color. It is a relatively hard stone, measuring 7 on the Mohs scale. Aquamarine ranges in color from light blue to dark blue, sometimes with a hint of green. Unlike emerald it is not always prone to inclusions, and near-flawless gems are more common. It is a very wearable, clear, brilliant gem that makes a good choice for all types of jewelry.

Aquamarine is versatile-its subtle color makes it appropriate in casual and formal jewelry. Small aquamarines can be set alone for unflashy decoration, while larger gems make excellent centerpieces when surrounded by small diamonds. Aquamarine combines well with all jewelry metals-gold can add a touch of warmth to the cool blue of the stone, while the mirror sheen of platinum or white gold will highlight the bluish hue.

The versatility of its color and its relatively low price make aquamarines popular choices for youth jewelry and casual fashion wear. They were a favorite gem in the parures (matched sets) of the 1820s and are still very functional in today's jewelry designs. Aquamarine's tendency to be more free from the inclusions in emeralds isn't just a cosmetic difference. Fewer inclusions means less vulnerability to chips and cracks. Aquamarines are frequently cut with large step facets to show off their flawless surfaces, and settings for aquamarines can safely expose the gemstone more than is possible with emeralds.

Madagascar used to be a prime source of medium and darker blue stones, but nowadays Brazil is the most prolific supplier of aquamarine. The natural color of Brazilian gems leans toward bluish-green. Other sources of aquamarine are the African countries of Tanzania, Kenya and Nigeria, the island of Sri Lanka, Afghanistan and Russia.

BUYING AQUAMARINE

Aquamarine is always a shade of pastel blue, but darker, more saturated tones almost always cost more. Connoisseurs also prefer a pure blue, with no green in it. Stones with a tinge of green can be bought for less, and aren't necessarily less appealing to a consumer.

Because the color is generally pale, aquamarine should have a good clarity for maximum brilliance. These stones are often cut in ovals and emerald cuts. More saturated colors are unusual in small sizes: usually it takes some size for the color to hold in a darker shade. Flattering to almost any skin tone, aquamarine is a durable and lively gemstone that is appropriate for almost all jewelry occasions and wearers.

Aquamarines should never be cleaned with mechanical cleaners. However, warm water and mild soap can effectively remove oils and dirt, which can build up to dull aquamarine's blue color. Unlike emeralds, aquamarines are usually not treated with fillers, resins, or oils to reduce inclusions. The advances of modern technology have made it possible, and very common, for aquamarine to be heat-treated to drive the green out of the stone and leave a more pleasing blue. This is a permanent treatment and has become accepted in the jewelry industry.

HISTORY OF AQUAMARINE

Named for the Latin term for sea water, aquamarine has been credited with providing courage, curing laziness and quickening the intellect. In the Middle Ages it was believed to give the wearer both insight, foresight and freedom from insomnia. Among various peoples, it had the reputation of providing happiness and everlasting youth. Water in which an aquamarine had been soaked was believed to cure eye troubles and stop hiccups.

Legends say that it is the treasure of mermaids, with the power to keep sailors safe at sea. Aquamarine is said to be a particularly strong charm when immersed in water, which may explain why sailors took to them so faithfully on rough seas.

Aquamarine was also said to have a positive influence on love realtionships, especially married couples, by smoothing out differences. This may have led to its popularity as an anniversary gift. Aquamarines are also cited in modern "gem therapy" as a cure for headaches and a talisman for attracting new friends.

The largest known aquamarine was found in Brazil in 1920. It was 19 inches long, 16 inches wide and weighed 243 pounds, but was subsequently cleaved into many smaller gemstones. A green 13-pound uncut piece of the outer portion of the crystal resides in the American Museum of Natural History. The British Museum of Natural History owns an 879.5 carat flawless, step-cut aquamarine with a lovely sea-green color. It is much easier to find large gem quality pieces of aquamarine than emerald.