21 December, 2001 by Richard Simpson and Valentine Low
Thirty years ago, Dorit and Boaz Ramot met at Castello di Vincigliata, a sanctuary for artisans on the outskirts of Florence. She was a designer, he an artist. They made beautiful jewellery together. Soon, the Ramots were supplying some of Bond Street's most established jewellery houses. Now, after three years of looking for the right location, they have opened their own boutique - Ramot - on Sloane Street. The shop, with its calming sandstone and maplewood interior, is uncluttered and understated, like the collections on display there. The majority of pieces are worked in Geneva and Zurich, with diamonds cut in Israel, and are of the highest quality. (The Ramots pioneered the invisibly set diamond.) Prices range from reasonable to indulgent - a simple wedding band costs Pounds 500; the whitest South Sea pearl drop earrings, set with diamonds, goes for Pounds 12,000; a delicate watch encrusted with 290 diamonds for Pounds 260,000. But you get the same, unusual, guarantee with every purchase: the Ramots will replace any piece of jewellery with which a customer feels uncomfortable, for whatever reason. Across town in Bond Street is another new, and unusually welcoming, jewellery boutique - once you have made it past the extensive double-door, man-trap security system. Mouawad was founded by David Mouawad, a Lebanese watchmaker and jewellery designer. His son Fayez expanded the business to Saudi Arabia, and another son Robert has developed the company into an international brand. Robert's sons - Fred, Alain and Pascal - are continuing the family tradition and, in the past few years, have worked to increase the company's profile. Mouawad always catered to the most demanding customers (over the years, the family has acquired 12 of the world's top 20 diamonds). Now, it is catering to celebrities, too. It loaned jewellery worth Pounds 4.5m jewellery to fashion label Ghost for its catwalk show last February, and has introduced a celebrity loan service. When a diamond necklace, with alternating hearts and oval diamonds, costs Pounds 800,000, this makes some sense. But for those who prefer not to be a borrower, there is plenty to choose from. Mouawad's Signature Collections include pieces that are both fashionable and affordable: a ring with 2.3 carats of rubies and 1.3 carats of diamonds costs from just Pounds 3,700. Ramot, 202 Sloane Street, London, SW1 (020-7235 8806). Mouawad, 9 New Bond Street, London W1 (020-7495 4951); in the US: 45 West 45th Street, 15th floor, New York (+1 212-997 9350); www.mouawad.com www.ft.com/style